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Artificial fingernails can lead to infections and allergic reactions

By: Drs. Craig N. Burkhart and Dean S. Morrell, UNC Health Care

Artificial nails have been a popular method of improving the cosmetic appearance of nails for decades. An individual can choose between plastic (“press-on”) or sculptured (“acrylic”) nails to esthetically enhance their nails.

Preformed plastic nails are attached by roughening the natural nail surface with a nail file to increase adhesion, coating the nail with an antifungal, and gluing on a plastic tip with an acrylate-based adhesive.

Sculptured, or acrylic, nails are similarly prepared by first roughening the natural nail plate, removing or trimming loose cuticle, and coating with an antifungal and/or antibacterial liquid. However, instead of gluing on a plastic prosthesis, this nail is formed by coating the natural nail plate with an acrylic liquid that is hardened into final shape by the addition of either benzoyl peroxide or ultraviolet light.

Although they may appear strong, both forms of artificial nails actually require more care than a natural fingernail. The most important step in preventing infection and nail damage is a careful, licensed nail technician.

Artificial nails create a protected environment for fungi and bacteria to grow; hence, a nail technician should wash his/her hands between each customer and sterilize all instruments in a proper disinfectant (not soapy water) to prevent the spread of infection. If infection does occur, one should see a dermatologist who will recommend removal of the artificial nail and prescribe appropriate antibiotic or antifungal medication.

Importantly, the antifungal and antibacterial liquids used by the nail technician are used to prevent infection and are not appropriate for treating infections. Prescription antibiotics/antifungals and removal of the artificial nail is necessary once a nail becomes infected.

In addition to infection, temporary or permanent damage to the natural nail may occur. Overzealous manicuring during placement of the artificial nail can cause inflammation and/or deformation of the nail plate. In fact, most complications from professional manicures are due to manipulation of the cuticle, or the thin lining at the base of the nail plate. Because the cuticle forms a protective barrier of the proximal nailfold, this structure should never be removed or traumatized.

Once an artificial nail is in place, a customer must regularly see a manicurist. Often loose edges must be clipped and filled with new acrylic every 3 weeks in order to prevent the formation of an environment for infection.

These nail repairs should not be done at home with household glues, as these glues are not made for prolonged contact with human skin and may cause irritation and/or allergic reactions. Instead, one should ask his/her technician about proper use of nail products specifically formulated for maintaining nails. Finally, as prolonged occlusion of the natural nail can lead to thinning of the nail plate, one should arrange for the artificial nails to be removed after 3 months and wait one month before reapplying artificial nails.

Even though they are made for use on humans, individuals still occasionally develop allergies to their artificial nails. Usually, this presents as dermatitis (red, swollen, painful, and/or itchy skin) at sites distant to the fingers. Because thinner skin is more susceptible to allergic reactions and our fingers often touch these locations, allergic contact dermatitis secondary to artificial nails and/or their products most often occur on eyelids, around the mouth and chin, sides of the neck, and on genitalia. However, a dermatitis restricted to the skin around the nail is not uncommon.

Most allergies are caused by the acrylic glue used to attach preformed artificial nails or the liquid acrylates that are hardened to form the sculptured nail. As it is the liquid form of the acrylates and not the hardened or “cured” acrylic that one becomes sensitive to, an experienced nail technician who avoids skin contact with the liquid or “uncured” acrylic may avoid causing allergic reactions.

Once an allergy develops, there is no “hypoallergenic” artificial nail. All forms of artificial nails contain forms of acrylic acid that may be allergenic to sensitive individuals—even “acid-free” nails contain esters of acrylic acid. If one suspects an allergic reaction, he/she should talk to a dermatologist about allergy tests to find which products are safe.

Craig N. Burkhart, MS, MD, is a resident in Dermatology at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill School of Medicine.

Dean S. Morrell, MD, is an Assistant Professor of Dermatology and Director of Pediatric and Adolescent Dermatology at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill School of Medicine.


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