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(press release from Cognis)

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The wellness trend is about more than simply using natural-source ingredients; every stage of the cultivation and manufacturing process must be carried out in an environmentally responsible way. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, is working in partnership with local community groups on its “LS Argan program”, which has now resulted in the development of three cosmetic actives ingredients derived from the argan tree. The initiative puts into practice LS’s belief that ecological farming, fair trade and sustainability can and should play a major role in the development of new ingredients.

Almost four years ago, LS and Targanine, a co-operative network, formed a partnership with the aim of identifying new sources of active ingredients for cosmetics and improving revenues from the cultivation of the argan tree (Argania Spinosa). The argan tree is found only in southern Morocco, where the local population have for centuries extracted a high-quality oil from the tree’s seeds, and used it for culinary purposes and in traditional beauty rituals. However, in recent years, the argan tree has been threatened by social and climatic factors, such as increased agriculture, over-exploitation, ground erosion and desertification. One result of the partnership is the development of three innovative cosmetic ingredients for care applications, using different parts of the argan tree in a sustainable way:

• Arganyl: flavonoids extracted from the argan tree’s leaves. It has anti-ageing properties, protecting the deeper layers of the skin through its anti-MMP and anti-collagenase activity.
• Argatensyl: a protein of high molecular weight, extracted from seeds of the argan tree fruit. It tightens the skin and reduces fine lines.
• Lipofructyl Argan: a high-purity oil with Ecocert certification. It has applications in skin, hair and nail products.

By using an accredited all-women cooperative network as its sole supplier, LS is helping to support the integration of women in Moroccan society. The potential extra revenues are encouraging local communities to conserve and expand the argan forest, working in partnership with the Moroccan Water and Forests Authorities and following the recommendations of an impact study conducted by LS, which demonstrates the need to trim the Argan leaves in order to allow optimal growth of the tree. A nursery has also been planted, and education programs introduced, as a result of which the local population has a better understanding of the value of the argan tree and is more involved in its protection. This part of the project is entirely financed by LS, with the aim of accelerating and increasing argan replanting.

The argan tree – a symbol of Morocco
The argan tree is a tree indigenous to southern Morocco, predominantly found on the Souss plane in the north-east of Essaouira, at the edge of the Sahara Desert. The argan forest extends over approximately 800,000 hectares and contains more than 20 million trees. The soil it grows in is of poor quality from an agricultural point of view. The tree can live for as long as 200 years, and is well adapted to this harsh environment, thanks to an extensive root system which allows it to draw water from a depth of more than 30 meters. The argan forest forms a barrier against the advance of the desert, and plays an important socio-economic role, as it contributes towards the maintenance of more than 3 million people.

Sustainable development from LS
In keeping with its environmental and sustainability guidelines, LS began analyzing plants from Africa, Latin America, India and elsewhere more than 10 years ago, with the aim of finding extracts suitable for cosmetic applications. As Isabelle Benoit, Marketing Manager LS, explains: “The cosmetic industry has felt the benefits of globalization for many years now, as it has led to an exchange of ideas between different regions and increased access to exotic plants. So it is only right that we should pay more attention to sustainability at a global level. Sourcing should be carried out in an environmentally responsible manner that is compatible with socio-economic considerations. To protect the planet’s biodiversity and our shared heritage, we work closely together with local communities around the world.”

About Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
Laboratoires Sérobiologiques is Cognis Care Chemicals’ active ingredients business. It specializes in the development, manufacture and marketing of innovative cosmetic concepts and active ingredients.

About Cognis
Cognis is a worldwide supplier of innovative specialty chemicals and nutritional ingredients. As at September 30, 2004, the company employed about 8,100 people, and it operates production sites and service centers in 30 countries. Cognis has dedicated its activities to a high level of sustainability and delivers natural source raw materials and ingredients for food, nutrition and healthcare markets, and the cosmetics, detergents and cleaners industries. Additionally, Cognis provides solutions for a number of other industries, such as coatings and inks, lubricants, textiles and plastics, as well as agriculture and mining.

Cognis is owned by private equity funds advised by Permira, GS Capital Partners, and SV Life Sciences. In 2003, Cognis recorded sales of 2.95 billion euros and an Adjusted EBITDA (earnings before interest, income taxes, depreciation, amortization and exceptional items) of 312 million euros.

Contact
Isabelle Stussi, Communications Laboratoires Sérobiologiques
Division de Cognis France
Phone: +33-3-8329-9789
E-mail: isabelle.stussi@cognis.com
Internet: www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

Wulf Klüppelholz, Corporate Communications Manager
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Phone: +49-2173-4995-221
E-mail: wulf.klueppelholz@cognis.com
Internet: www.cognis.com

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