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NEW YORK, NY (October 4, 2002)--Aging, heredity, sun exposure and lifestyle
can alter a person's skin, causing wrinkles and pigmentary changes such as blotchiness
or brown spots. Today, there are a variety of surgical and nonsurgical ways
to address these problems. Creams, lotions, peels, dermabrasion and lasers all
play a role in the battle against aging skin. Over a million-and-a-half Americans
had some type of skin resurfacing treatment in 2001, according to statistics
from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). This
number is expected to rise, as the results of available treatments improve and
recovery times diminish.
Chemical peels, dermabrasion and laser skin resurfacing all achieve results
in basically the same way. Layers of skin are removed and, as healing progresses,
a new, healthier-looking skin emerges. What differentiates the various resurfacing
methods is the way in which the skin's layers are removed. Peels involve the
application of a chemical solution, dermabrasion utilizes a high-speed rotary
wheel, and laser resurfacing uses a laser beam.
Skin resurfacing does not treat excessive skin laxity of the face and neck.
It is not a substitute for, but can certainly complement, a facelift.
Skin Resurfacing: How have things changed?
Since the beginning of recorded history, people have tried to influence the
aging process by using "potions" and creams to help their skin look its best.
It has been said that Mark Antony conquered the lands of the Dead Sea so that
Cleopatra could use the water, salt and mud for cosmetic purposes. Sea Buckthorn
was used by the ancient Greeks to promote the healing of various skin conditions.
The Egyptian queen Nefertiti is believed to have used Shea Butter to prevent
wrinkles.
Today, many people use over-the-counter creams, lotions, and exfoliants to treat
facial blemishes, smooth the skin, or encourage a healthy-looking glow. However,
skin care has come a long way, and medically-supervised treatments using scientifically-based
formulas and state-of-the-art technology are widely recognized as desirable
for optimal skin beauty and health.
Skin Resurfacing: Where are we now?
In the early days of modern skin resurfacing, phenol was the only agent used
for full-face application. Throughout the 1960s, 70s and 80s, phenol was the
resurfacing modality of choice. A phenol peel still may be recommended for treating
particularly rough and sun damaged skin. Phenol is a strong and effective chemical
agent that reduces the appearance of wrinkles ranging from fine lines to deeper
creases. It is particularly useful for minimizing the deep vertical lines that
often form around the mouth as a result of aging or smoking. The disadvantage
of phenol for spot peeling of limited areas is that it often has a significant
bleaching effect. Although the traditional phenol peel may still be appropriate
for some patients, it has largely been replaced by other milder peels, including
newer variations of "buffered" phenol peels that have added ingredients to produce
a gentler solution.
A trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel is another treatment for wrinkles,
pigmentary changes and blemishes. Unlike a phenol peel, patients can benefit
from having TCA applied not only to the face but also on the neck and other
parts of the body that have been exposed to the sun. For spot peeling of limited
areas such as around the mouth or eyes, TCA formulas are often preferred because,
with lighter application, they can have less of a bleaching effect. For the
same reason, some surgeons have found TCA to be effective in treating darker-skinned
patients.
Milder TCA peels can be repeated frequently in order to achieve a cumulative
effect, or TCA can be used to achieve a medium or even a deep peel, depending
on the acid concentration and manner of application.
Light peels -- those containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHA's) such as glycolic
acid -- can be used to give the skin a fresher, healthier appearance without
downtime or the use of anesthetic. Repeated treatments can help to further improve
skin texture. AHA peels can reduce the effects of aging and sun damage including
wrinkling and brown spots, but usually not to the extent of deeper treatments.
Dermabrasion is another form of skin resurfacing utilized by plastic
surgeons. This technique uses a small, rapidly spinning wheel with a texture
similar to fine-grained sandpaper to abrade the skin, removing its upper layers.
Dermabrasion sometimes is selected for the treatment of facial scars. It is
effective in reducing the appearance of vertical wrinkles around the mouth that
often cause lipstick "bleed." Patients with lighter skin types can expect minimal
pigmentary change in the treated areas, whereas those with darker skin are at
a higher risk for hyperpigmentation3 or hypopigmentation4.
Microdermabrasion is a relatively new resurfacing technique; it has only
been available in the United States for a few years. With microdermabrasion,
the depth of the skin injury is typically controlled so that it barely extends
through the epidermis (outermost layer of skin). No anesthesia is required for
the procedure, and the end point of the treatment is mild erythema.2 A true
"lunch hour" procedure, patients can reapply make-up and return to work or other
activities immediately.
Laser resurfacing is a commonly used technique for skin resurfacing.
The effects of a laser are similar to the other procedures, except that the
laser removes skin layers by vaporization rather than with chemicals or a sanding
device. Skin characteristics such as thickness, texture and color influence
whether a person is a good candidate for laser resurfacing. Some patients may
benefit from the laser's mild "tightening" effect on the skin, particularly
in the lower eyelid area where the skin often becomes somewhat loose as a result
of aging; the skin-tightening effect from laser-treatment in this area may not
always be long-lasting.
The carbon dioxide (CO2) laser and the Erbium laser are commonly
used for skin resurfacing procedures. While the CO2 laser has been used for
some time and is highly accepted, the newer Erbium laser is also popular. The
Erbium laser produces less thermal damage per impact, so wound healing and recovery
time are more rapid. In experienced hands, the Erbium laser may achieve similar
results to the CO2 laser with less risk of complications. As a result, there
is an increasing utilization and acceptance of this device.
Despite the efficacy of ablative systems, the downtime during recovery may be
too much for many patients. The desire for corrective procedures which minimize
downtime has led to an increase in the popularity of nonablative5 systems. Current
nonablative laser systems vary in the way they achieve results. Some heat the
deep dermis while protecting the skin's surface with a spray coolant. Others
may partially disrupt the superficial skin vessels causing a cellular response
which promotes new collagen formation.
The nonablative or nonexfoliating laser rejuvenation of facial wrinkles is relatively
new and requires additional investigation to evaluate its effectiveness. Studies
are underway to further develop the devices and techniques. This modality may
be particularly applicable for those individuals who are poor candidates for
conventional laser resurfacing because of deeply pigmented skin, which places
them at high risk for post-procedure pigmentation irregularities, or for those
patients who have already undergone a laser resurfacing procedure. However,
some plastic surgeons remain unimpressed by results obtained with the current
generation of nonablative lasers.
Intense pulsed light (IPL) technology is yet another skin resurfacing
technology. With this technology, the energy source is not limited to a single
wavelength, but modulated with filters. A series of sessions is necessary to
provide a lasting benefit. IPL is effective in treating brown age spots, broken
blood vessels, rosacia6, and flushing while improving skin texture and pore
size. A smoother, brighter, more homogeneous skin appearance can be expected
in the majority of patients who complete 5 to 6 treatments. Very limited downtime
is involved -- usually just a few hours of redness. Patients with extremely
sun damaged skin, however, may experience a few days of mild to moderate crusting;
downtime is less with each successive treatment. Like nonablative lasers, the
current IPL technology is still being evaluated, and some surgeons feel that
it does not yet offer sufficient benefit.
Doctors are studying the effects of combining certain skin-resurfacing treatments
for optimal results. For example, combining microdermabrasion and a trichloroacetic
acid peel has been reported as an effective treatment for photodamaged skin,
more severe acne scarring, and moderately deep wrinkles.
Many board-certified plastic surgeons are now offering nonsurgical skin care
as part of their cosmetic surgery practice, offering patients the full range
of options when it comes to choosing appropriate treatments.
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Glossary
of terms: |
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1. |
Dyschromia:
A skin condition causing any abnormality in the color of the skin. |
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2. |
Erythema:
A skin condition causing redness due to capillary dilation |
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3. |
Hyperpigmentation:
A skin condition causing an excess of pigment. |
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4. |
Hypopigmentation:
A skin condition causing a deficiency in pigment. |
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5. |
Nonablative:
Nondestructive of outer tissue while stimulating collagen creation in
thedermis |
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6. |
Rosacea:
A skin condition causing dilated blood vessels, or flushing, and pustules
on the nose and cheeks. |
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